Adventures in New Orleans – Memorial Day Weekend 2013

How does one accurately portray the allure and charm of a celebrated world class city like New Orleans after only one first-time visit? The years of history and volumes already written alone create a daunting and humbling task for anyone other than the most experienced. What follows here then is far from any attempt at a comprehensive overview, but simply one person’s photo blog of a whirlwind three-day holiday weekend in one of America’s greatest cities.

Arrving at Louis Armstrong International Airport, the jazz tradition this city is so well known for is prominently on display.

A relatively quick cab ride whips past well known locations like LSU Medical Center and the Superdome (home of the NFL's Saints - here shot from moving vehicle).

First stop - The Royal Barracks Guest House - not coincidentally located on Barrracks street (by Royal) in The French Quarter.

Directly across the street, and equally charming view.

And looking down the street.

A look inside - attractive and ornate.

The architecture is truly beautiful here, with one building after another presenting it's own unique structural qualities.

As we headed out on this Saturday night to check out some of the world famous music that is the centerpiece of this city’s culture, I asked the lovely Sissy Jean to snap a shot of me in front of some particularly appealing iron gatework. The desire to capture a moment and put yourself in it is difficult to resist – especially in a city as captivating as this one.

Strolling the streets of the French Quarter is a wonderful way to soak in the ambiance all around you.  As a coffee aficionado, I made note of all the places I wanted to stop in a some point during this sojourn.

Soon enough we were raging off to a good time club called The Rock'n'Bowl to catch Dave Ferrato and his Tchoupazine all star funk, R&B and blues band!

http://www.rocknbowl.com/

Serious musicians

Check 'em out:



After their killer set we went outside and met the nicest, chatty and friendly people.

We relaxed a bit, joked around and took a photo or two as well.

But like the best of party nights and the attempt to see and do as much as possible, we high-tailed it over to another venue to catch a very special event.

The big show this evening was a very special 30th Anniversary Celebration of Grammy winners the Rebirth Brass Band being held at Howlin Wolf.

The bands longevity and award winning status is a testament to the incredible high quality jazz and funk hybrid they play.

Opening the show was a duo combination I had yet to experience elsewhere.  While one member had the current DJ setup you see quite frequently (and it sounded like he had his own unique mixes, which were for the most part very good) - the other half of this duo was an electric violinist in the Jean Luc Ponty Jazz-Fusion mode.  What was even more surprising was how this bizarre combination actually worked!  They had the place jumpin' and the sound blended together very well.

Soon it was time for the evenings main event.

The large ensemble were working their way onto stage and getting everything set.

Hoping to experience one of the great New Orleans brass bands, it's hard to imagine doing any better than this.

In addition to their amazing sound, the band had a dedicated dancer on board (on the right there) who entertained the crowd with his high energy and moves!

He wore a dapper suit and hat, as well as a sash with the band's name on it - and waved around a huge feathered fan.

Dancin' man came out into the audience and the party revelers lapped it up.

Although a very diverse audience (much like the city itself) the partiers leaned towards the fratboy and bachelorette set - though there appeared to be plenty of locals there too.

The band played at a relentless pace and in this photo it almost seems like the member on the right there is reaching up and holding a magical orb in his hand.

Check out how they sound:


Performing "Big Chief" at their regular gig at The Maple Leaf Bar

Needing just a few temporary moments of a calmer environment, we headed just out and just up the street to a local establishment called the Corporation bar.  They had a great jukebox in there.

Heading back out and towards the Howlin Wolf, the Rebirth Brass Band was now out on the street in front, entertaining a large crowd.

One more clip from them, here performing on the wonderful
HBO dramatic series 'Treme



Find out more about them here:

http://www.rebirthbrassband.com/

At this point it was suggested I "needed" to experience the gauntlet that is Bourbon Street on a teeming Saturday night. 

It was as crowded and rowdy as anything I have ever experienced.  The closest that came to this previously was Saturday night on 6th street in Austin during SXSW.

However this seemed even more alcohol soaked (and puke splattered).  It was a hell of an experience, but I was glad to get through it unscathed.

*****

Sunday morning brought a refreshing sense of newness to the proceedings and the lure of a quality New Orleans breakfast.

Such fine appointments and details

Amazing Cappuccino

a lovely atmosphere

Sooo delicious

Newspaper headlines of the day

What is in the tiles outfront of Croissant D'or.

Remants of another time.

Seeing the sights and visiting recommended places

Ornate tilework

And more signage of past times

On a stroll, stopping at Pirates Alley

The great church in the square commemorates a previous visit by The Pope.

And on this day a Bishop was there.

We decided to go on a trolly car ride and see things outside of The French Quarter

First destination

The Creole Creamery.  Again, with signage remaining from days gone by.

Incredible flavors

The next stop, Three Brothers Lounge

Back on the trolley again

Street sign views

Neighborhoods just outside of the French Quarter

So many wonderful architectural details can be see.  I loved this banner plaque hanging from a spear or arrow.  It reminded me of the Lannister Lion sigil.

Strolling through the public spaces, we experienced many wonderful street musicians

and famous clubs on Frenchman street

 The decision was made to check out this great band The Palmetto Bug Stompers at club dba

Not only did the band swing, but the floor was filled with many elegant dance couples

The swirl of activity served to enchance an already great sound

Ghostly images merge with soundwaves

Soon it was time for dinner, and we would be dining at Emeril Lagasse's world famous restaurant NOLA

I loved this "autographed" carving knife

The meal.   Every bit as good as advertised.

The room.  Relaxed and inviting.

http://www.emerilsrestaurants.com/nola-restaurant

Back out on the street, we strolled past cafe's

As well as a pilgramage of sorts to St. Peter's Guest House - to pay respect to

Johnny Thunders final residence

The Inn on St. Peter's from across the street

The night's final image shows a full moon rising over the shadow of Jesus

*****

 Monday the 27th - Memorial Day

Starting the final day of this adventure off just right - with breakfast (and delicious coffee) at Cafe Beignet

The much recommended and very worth it Beignet

My buddy David Fransen who I got to know when he lived in Brooklyn enjoyed them as well.  David is born and raised in Louisiana - it was great catching up with him.

My breakfast.  Soooo good.

Out on the street - Croms and Frans

We caught a wonderful acapella group singing and I captured a bit of it.

Ornate rooms with lovely detail

And cool friends to hang with

Getting a Po Boy for the road.

If it isn't obvious by now, I would not hesitate recommending a trip to New Orleans to anyone considering it.

Just go - you'll be happy you did.

*******

6 Bands to Know: Lurve, Heliotropes, Weekend, Bambara, Heaven's Gate, Vassals

Six bands I’ve recently written about for The Deli Magazine are now featured here at DaveCromwellWrites. Each respective artist makes creative music that draws from a catalog of classic and alternative rock influences this writer has come to know and love over the years.

Promising Brooklyn dream rockers Lurve have recently released their debut EP, and offer three tracks available for streaming on their Soundcloud page. “Looks So Young” quickly establishes a penchant for guitar driven rock, with a hooky chord change that fans of Dinosaur Jr. would surely love. “Wires” (streaming below here)  kicks it all up one notch higher with a faster tempo, while multiple guitar layers buzz like bees under smooth, reverbed vocals. The tracks closing jam-out takes its cue from Sonic Youth’s tandem of Thurston and Lee, while incorporating their own twists along the way. Third track “Simple Syrup” on the other hand employs the quick turnaround chord changes that made iconic 90’s band The Pixies such a hit with what was once called the "alternative nation." Another extended guitar solo deftly incorporates the best of both The Pixies Joey Santiago’s and Dinosaur Jr.’s J. Mascis’ styles into their own, for an exciting final result.


Deli Mag Link:
Lurve on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

Brooklyn's Heliotropes continue to carve out a niche in the psych rock genre with their penchant for doom heavy grooves. The band has just released the first single “Psalms,” which will be included on their debut album “A Constant Sea” set for release on June 18 via Manimal Vinyl records. “Psalms” thunders along a buzzing, rough-hewn guitar riff that dominated so much of the psychedelic hard rock in the early 1970’s. With a slithering groove paired alongside smooth seductive vocals, the band hits us with a quickened tempo change for good measure. The lyrics trend towards philosophical questions like “Do you feel that love is real?” and “am I really born to die?” A wickedly nasty guitar solo gives you the answer. Upcoming shows include their Album Release Party at Glasslands on June 18th and The 4Knots Fest on June 29th.



Heliotropes on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

Former west coast and now Brooklyn based psych rockers Weekend are preparing to release their sophomore album “Jinx,” this summer. In advance of that comes the recently released lead single "Mirror," which hints at sonic explorations different from what was presented on their debut album "Sports." Standout tracks from that initial record like "Coma Summer" emphasized a deep reverberation and warped aesthetic (in both attitude and sound). Their latest track, however presents a cleaner sound with fewer layers, an ethereal synthesizer wash, (especially as the track opens) placing emphasis on more clearly audible vocals with echoy guitar lines over a driving bass guitar and drum pattern. Soon enough there is a less pretty, more static-like sound cutting through it, though. The overall pacing, guitar and bass textures and even the beat of the song is reminiscent of early 80's bands like The Cure (think "A Forrest") and The Smiths (especially in the tonal quality of the lead vocals). With the tease of album track titles "July" "Oubliette" "Celebration, FL" "Sirens" "Adelaide" "It’s Alright" "Rosaries" "Scream Queen" and "Just Drive" to ponder over, there is much to look forward to as we approach the full release.

Weekend on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

Emerging as the latest entry into New York’s ever growing Psych Rock scene comes the Brooklyn based trio BAMBARA. Recognition of their shared sonic kinship with legendary New York bands like A Place To Bury Strangers and Swans most likely served as motivation to leave Athens, Georgia for the grittier streets of Bushwick. The band will now release their much anticipated debut full length album “DREAMVIOLENCE” via Arrowhawk Records as well as their own Emerald Weapon imprint. As you may evince from their predilection for all caps, this is not a band interested in whispering. Current single “Nail Polish” throttles along at a frantic pace, with warped guitar textures conjuring twisted carnival merry-go-rounds of an unsettling dream. “All The Same” creeps up from misty swamps until an overloaded bassline and clattering drum pattern cuts through it all with caustic force.



Bambara on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

Brooklyn powerpunk gaze-rockers Heaven’s Gate released their 7 song EP “High Riser” recently, proving that quick, catchy ideas are often the best. With most songs clocking in under two minutes, there are still hooks galore to wrap your ears around. “Pray” thrashes with abandon, like early Siouxsie and The Banshees (think “Carcass” from their eponymous debut album “The Scream”). “Pogo” taps the punk vibe mapped out by The Ramones and New York Dolls. “Salome” moves into pitch-bended guitar dreams, with a heart-tugging guitar progression paired against emotionally charged vocals. The image one might get from a song titled “Jesus Hair” is that of the quintessential rock dude with long parted in the middle locks. “All you want to give me, all that you can give – ‘cause you know that I’ll take it,” implies approval of type by our intrepid female vocalist. “Weakness Worm” would slot nicely between a Yeah Yeah Yeah’s and Hunters track, while “Skin Weed” merges the Peter Gunn detective beat with Sonic Youth guitar recklessness. Final track “Sea Swing” stomps and rumbles like a Patti Smith/Kevin Shields collaboration. The band will be performing at Knitting Factory on May 26.




Heaven's Gate on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

The Vassals released their first full length "In My Dreams I Am A Sailor" this past fall. Stand out tracks like "Informers" utilize sparse bass guitar patterns and tom tom driven beats, allowing for a chance to clearly understand the vocals. Singing about "ghosts" by way of their "father," guitar is used sparingly at first, before becoming more dominant as the song progresses. It ultimately builds from quiet levels to a bombastic finish. "Dark Circles" moves things initially into further solemn ground, before (again) rising to a dramatic sonic peak. There are references to "dead little stars" that "used to burn so bright." "Tambourines" presents itself as a start-to-finish rave up rocker. Finding the album title embedded within these lyrics positions it as a signature track. Album closer "The River" makes effective use of bended guitar notes to create a sonic image of water in motion.


Read my interview with this band on The Deli Mag here

The Vassals on The Deli by Dave Cromwell

*****

3 from St. Marie Records – Nightmare Air, Panda Riot, The History Of Color TV

Garnering much respect these days for their partnerships with high quality emerging musicians, is the burgeoning music label St. Marie Records.



With offices in Fort Worth, Texas, Seattle and Los Angeles, their catalog of recording artists is as impressive as they come. In addition to familiar friends like The Sunshine Factory, Bloody Knives, Elika, Resplandor and Drowner, three artists have new albums this year that deserve special attention.

First up is the wonderful Nightmare Air and their recently released “High In The Lasers”

Leadoff track “Escape” establishes a pattern of sweetly sung female lead vocals and alternating shouty punctuation counterpoint. This rhythmic song structure reappears throughout the album on a number of tracks, blending seamlessly into the records overall high quality production. Hard driving guitars are mixed under the vocals until the instrumental break, where they take center stage.

Recent video release “Icy Daggers” (streaming below) at times echoes the bygone but still much beloved and frequently referenced 80’s alterna-rock-dance ear of Missing Persons (Dale Bozzio vocals, Terry Bozzio percussion) and Duran Duran (“Planet Earth” highhat percussive rhythm, but sans the commanding bassline).



“18 Days” exhibits a more easily discernible lyrical understanding, while dipping into the same deep waters The Cure swam for textural ambience and guitar lines. The amusingly titled “Sweet Messy Riff” actually continues to place emphasis on the vocals, as the ‘call’ between smooth, seductive female lead revisits the counterpoint male sung ‘response.’ Her repeated line of “in your eyes you wanted me” strikes a universal chord with those tuned in to the laws of attraction.

“Brightest Diamond” gallops along like a Dothraki horserider, placing emphasis this time on male lead vocals. It’s chorus embeds a tasty guitar riff underneath more shout-like vocals displaying both creative songwriting and mastery of the studio recording process. “Sun Behind the Rocks” moves over into psychedelica, with textures, pulses and sonic filigrees floating above a dominant toms and bass heavy drum pattern. Violent guitar chords emerge and meld with this forceful drumming, bringing to mind the best that a band like A Place To Bury Strangers has to offer. “Eyes” drives along a commanding bass pattern with vocal effects and enhancements not unlike much of what Jane's Addiction presented in their heyday of the early 1990’s.

Find out more about the band here:

www.nightmareairmusic.com
www.facebook.com/nightmareairmusic

* * * * *

Panda Riot have already produced a number of memorable songs over the past few years, however they reach new heights of excellence on their latest full length "Northern Automatic Music"

Opening track “Amanda In The Clouds” immediately brings a whirlwind of wonderful feelings through its melody, sound design and the historic sonic references conjured. Weaving swirling vocal beauty reminiscent of The Cocteau Twins (the chorus) and somewhat more rigid cadence of School of Seven Bells (the verses), drums rat-a-tat out front in the mix like best of Broadcast.

 

“In The Forrest (some kind of night fills your head)” continues the regimented vocal pattern, while deep piano chords block out the progression, allowing a looser military style percussive pulse to clatter inside humming guitar textures. Gorgeous melodies emerge, creating instant waves of emotion.



“Serious Radical Girls” bounces along an upbeat rhythm with emphasis on beds of buzzing bee guitars. The percussion track has that trip-hop mechanical feel of the Madchester era dance raves. If, in the 1990’s you took The Soup Dragons, Chapterhouse and The Farm and added My Bloody Valentine guitars (with its subsequent female vocals) this could be one result. Surprisingly, the track ends on a gentle, stark piano riff.  Title track “Northern Automatic Music” is both intro’d and outro’d by way of placid psychedelic flutes and keyboards. The bulk of the song dips deeper into MBV guitar texture territory however, with pitch bended waves melting into backwards-tracked sonics and synth beds. “Golden Age” rises from misty depths of a Brian Eno underworld and blossoms into waves of mysterious beauty. “MTWM Glass” continues the soul music for stargazers who still remember the feeling of falling in love for the first time. “All of these times that I can’t remember” is the universal lyric of staring into the void – and not being frightened by it.

“Black Pyramids” rides along happy hand claps and sugary “ahhhhh, ahhhhh” vocals. Reaching a pivotal moment it all goes quiet as a questioning statement is presented: “If you think that you can tell me what the point of everything will be, then you should take the time to tell me why. If you’ve got it figured then I hope you’ll tell me how to make it when I have forgotten all my dreams.”


Find out more about Panda Riot here:

http://www.saintmarierecords.com/artists-1/panda-riot

http://www.pandariot.com/handmade/main.html

* * * * *



German digitech drone and noise-pop rockers The History Of Colour TV have released an amazing album titled Emerald Cures Chic Ills

“Let’s Get Sick” comes right out of the box with dense layers of keyboard sampled guitar intonations, pointing directly back to the musical heritage perfected by My Bloody Valentine’s watershed album “Loveless.” Voices blend with the icy textures, leading up to a guitar-strings scratch conclusion.


Like much of “Loveless,” many of the tracks blend immediately into the next, and so it is with “I Knew It Was Wrong But I Did It Anyway.” A solid snare shot and high hat percussive track provides structural cohesiveness to the swirling guitar textures, blended voices and more keyboard ambience floating above it.

 “Suddenlines” builds around deep tom tom rhythms and softer keyboard strings. Despite the bass guitar driven crescendos within, the overall feel is one of ambient introspection.


“Selisse Estates” exhibits far more urgency as clarion call guitar pairs off with clacketty percussion against vocal counter-melodies. Gorgeous keyboard washes turn everything psychedelic and you find yourself staring (once again) into the void. It is both beautiful and somewhat unsettling. “Interference” provides a necessary minute long interlude of drifting calm, after so much emotional discharge.

 “1-800-Badnite” is bass guitar driven, with lush keyboard textures that would not sound out of place on The Cure’s “Disintegration.” Vocals are delivered much smoother however, with far less angst than Robert Smith is known for.


“Mend” serves as the epic length track, clocking in at nearly 8 minutes long. Opening with what could be described as the sound a brutal storm makes, the sonic wind slowly clears to allow for a survey of what damage may have occurred. When vocals do start, it is the traditional instrument of acoustic guitar minus any percussion at all that marks out its progression. Lush keyboards fill the sonic spectrum with cathedral-like reverence. “Sxrx” surprises initially with its gentle approach of soft vocals and minimal keyboard accompaniment. Harsher sonics are introduced soon enough, as radio static shears through the relative calm.

“2x1x” doubles down harder with deep, buzzing keyboards fit for any budding Phantom of the Opera. Radio waves flutter in above that like winged angels (or perhaps demons?) jockeying for position in the cathedrals darker corners. “Going To Stay” shimmers up quietly from misty fields before exiting the way it came.

Find out more about this band here:

http://www.saintmarierecords.com/artists-1/the-history-of-colour-tv

thehistoryofcolourtv.tumblr.com

* * * * *

For all other artists on the wonderful Saint Marie Records label, be sure to visit them here:

http://www.saintmarierecords.com/